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Permanent Jewelry Tips & Tricks

Permanent Jewelry Tips & Tricks

Q. What are the best size jump rings to use for permanent jewelry? 

A common question we get asked and it depends on a few factors. The most important is the size of your chain, and the space between the links. For example, on a paperclip chain there is about 5mm x 1.5mm of space between the inside of the links. This means that you can fit a jump ring  that is less than 1.5mm in wire diameter. Jump rings are usually sold in gauges, the most common gauge used for permanent jewelry 22 gauge or 24 gauge. 22 gauge is equal to about .64mm in wire diameter, meaning if you have 1.5mm of space in your link, there is plenty of room for this size jump ring. If you have a smaller chain, a 24 gauge jump ring can be used which is .5mm in wire diameter. Then the second part of the jump ring is described in MM, which is either the outside diameter or the inside diameter. This is confusing as suppliers can vary on how they advertise. All jump rings from Pepetools are marked as the outside diameter 3mm being the most common. For most chain applications, a 3mm, 22 gauge jump ring is best to be used.

Q. What are the best settings when using a Helix Permanent Jewelry Welder?

A. The settings used on a permanent jewelry welder depend on two things, the gauge (or diameter of the wire used to make that jump ring) and the material type. For example, a 22gauge and 24 gauge sterling silver jump ring welds best at a 6J. If you have issues with blowing through the jump ring, or the weld doesn't close the jump ring you can try a few things. Make sure the links are closed tightly together. Ensure the electrode is sharp, and consider adding an argon kit for best results. 

For a gold filled jump ring, or solid gold, we recommend starting at 7 joule setting

Q. What are the best grounded pliers for permanent jewelry? 

A. There are many options on the market. Pepetools manufactures a variety of options from needle nose, to flat nose, to bent nose. The most popular is the needle nose option. These have a thin point that allow to work with small jump rings. Another option to consider are the locking tweezers. The tweezers have a sliding mechanism that allow for a strong grip on tiny jump rings, giving you a free hand to weld with. It is important to make sure a correct plug is used on the grounded pliers. Pepetools utilizes very high quality plugs that will work with almost all machines on the market. We also induction solder the plug to the plier to ensure a long lasting tool.

Q. How often should I change my electrode and sharpen it?

A. The electrode needs to maintain a sharp pointed tip at around 15 degrees. The best way to sharpen it is with a rotary tool that can be found through various vendors with a diamond wheel. Electrodes can be purchased pre-sharpened as well here.

Please shoot us an e-mail at support@pepetools.com if we can answer any questions, we are available 24/7 for support.